Are your lemon scents languishing on the shelf in wait of summer and sunshine? We urge you to liberate them from seasonal exile and hug them back to your bosom for winter! Because actually, their effervescent sparkle and uplifting aromas can be the perfect perfume to reach for in the colder season…
The citrusy aroma of lemon is so often thought of as the sparkling garnish in perfumery, yet it is far more than a mere squeeze of zest at the top of a composition. Bright, lively and almost effervescent, lemon has an extraordinary ability to make other notes feel as if someone has drawn back a curtain and let the light in. Lemons and flowers, especially, are a perfect marriage in fragrance, just as a twist of lemon in cooking cuts through richness and sharpens flavours; that same clarifying quality helps petals feel fresher, clearer, more radiant on skin. So, while it may be familiar from classic colognes and breezy summer splashes, lemon is quietly working its magic in far more fragrances than you might suspect.
Its story winds back through centuries and across continents, with arguments about whether those first lemons hung from trees in north-east India, Burma or China, long before they travelled with traders and farmers. What is clearer is that Arab growers helped carry this evergreen beauty toward Europe, where it eventually took root and began to flourish, and that later still lemon seeds were transported across the ocean as part of that great wave of botanical migration. Today, lemons are cultivated almost anywhere there is enough sun, their fruit beloved in kitchens and medicine cabinets as much as in perfumers’ laboratories. The oil itself is obtained by cold – pressing the peel, a method that preserves its brightness and captures an aroma uncannily close to sniffing a twist of fresh zest held right beneath your nose.
That’s perhaps why lemon in fragrance feels so instantly recognisable – and so instantly cheering. It brings an almost tactile sparkle, at once refreshing and comforting, like opening a window in a stuffy room or taking the first sip of icy lemonade. In olfactory architecture, lemon is usually a top note, the early firework that flares and then softens, but while its overt juiciness may be fleeting, it changes the entire mood of what follows. Think of it as olfactive sunshine bottled, a golden filter through which woods, florals, spices and musks are gently, beautifully reframed.
Because lemon is so strongly associated with summer days and Mediterranean afternoons, those bottles often get relegated to the back of the shelf once the central heating clicks on and the knitwear emerges. Yet there’s something deliciously counterintuitive about wearing a bracing citrus when the air outside has a nip to it. In the cold, lemon behaves differently on skin; the sparkle feels crisper, more crystalline, as though the zest has been chilled in frost. That brightness can be wonderfully bracing on grey mornings, cutting through fog – both literal and mental – and lending a sense of clarity to the day.
Layered over cashmere, enveloped in a scarf, those same citrus notes that might seem almost too sprightly in high summer become a kind of portable light therapy in winter. The contrast between cold air and warm skin makes lemon’s radiance feel more focused, less diffused, so that each spritz is like stepping briefly into a sunbeam before tucking yourself back into your coat. If your mood is flagging, or your energy feels as colourless as a January sky, reaching for something sharply, joyously lemon – laden can be an instant mood shift. These are fragrances that deserve to be worn, not left languishing until the first daffodils appear.
So, if you have bottles you automatically label as “summer scents”, now is the moment to liberate them from seasonal exile. An extra dose of sunshine is arguably most needed precisely when there is none to be found outside, and a bright, lemon-laced perfume can feel like a brisk walk along a sunlit seafront, minus the sand in your socks.
With that in mind, here’s our edit of gloriously lemon-y favourites that feel made for winter wearing. Think of them as your scented daylight savings: a way to borrow back a little radiance, one spritz at a time…
Farina 1709 Eau de Cologne
Lemon shines in its most iconic role, twirling at the heart of a true Cologne classic that feels as though it has been freshly poured from a Venetian glass cruet in some light-drenched apothecary. Zesty lemon and kindred citruses fizz across the skin in airy waves, so translucent they are almost gauzy, before soft herbal and floral nuances and a delicately musky, woody undertone begin to glow through. In winter, that bracing opening feels like splashing your face with chilled water before stepping into the day, the tart peel note slicing cleanly through indoor fug and radiating a subtle, well – groomed freshness from beneath scarf and sweater.
Try a sample in our Essence Deluxe Discovery Box!
Kajal Sawlaj
Here, lemon is not a shy squeeze at the rim of the glass but a gleaming arc of brightness that slices through a richer, more opulent composition, lifting the blend with forked – lightning flashes of citrus. A vivid burst of lemon and other sunlit fruits and spices lights up the opening, gilding aromatics and florals before deeper, leathery, resinous and woody notes gather like shadows at the edge of the frame. That interplay makes it an especially beguiling winter wear; the lemon keeps the structure feeling airier than its warmth might suggest, so that the fragrance moves around you like a heated halo, the zest sparkling above a luxuriously smouldering base.
£171.14 for 100ml eau de parfum 50-ml.co.uk
ARgENTUM Everyman
This feels like a quietly luminous second skin, built around that connection between citrus brightness and tender green. Fresh circles of lemon rise first, airy and almost dewy, before dissolving into a gorgeously verdant bouquet where star anise, aromatic clary sage and wild daffodil weave together with a soft, salty – sweet breath of mimosa and powdery cassia. In winter, the lemon’s radiance slices through the chill with a gentle clarity, while the rich base of patchouli and cedarwood hums close to the body, giving the scent a mossy, cocooning depth that makes it feel like walking through a frost – tipped garden in perfect, contemplative calm.
£78 for 30ml eau de parfum in our Shop
Boadicea the Victorious Lavish
Opening with a truly generous squeeze of lemon, the zest tumbling over bergamot in a cascade of glinting droplets that instantly feels like standing beneath a skylight flooded with sun. As the fragrance settles, rose and a creamy scattering of nutmeg unfurl, warmed by vetiver, guaiac and other smooth woods and amber beneath, so that the initial brightness deepens into something plush and cocooning. Worn in winter, that big lemon opening is joyously almost too much in the best way, a dazzling contrast to leaden skies before it relaxes into a sophisticated glow around you, the zest still shimmering at the edges of a soft, spicy, woody warmth.
£37 for 10ml eau de parfum boadiceaperfume.com
Ghawali Noble
Pairing lemon with a juicy bite of apple in the top, giving the citrus an almost crystalline crunch, think: frost-dusted fruit in a chilled bowl. That vivid opening quickly drifts into aromatic facets and a gentle floral heart of lily of the valley, before cedarwood and musk wrap everything in a serene, polished softness that feels quietly regal rather than showy. In the colder months, the lemon here behaves like a streak of light across satin, illuminating the composition just enough to keep it feeling airy while the musky woods purr closer to the skin; it is the kind of understated radiance that works beautifully under a cashmere coat, offering a private flicker of brightness you can carry with you all day.
£175 for 75ml parfum selfridges.com
Written by Suzy Nightingale
